Artisan Spotlight: Seeds + Salt
Erin Torgerson from Seeds + Salt has blazed an incredible path as a cook and farmer. I loved learning about her journey and understanding the amazing work she does in the kitchen and the fields. Our paths crossed when we were studying in Italy, especially on one of my final days at the Slow Food Cheese festival. I recently took a virtual cooking class with Erin where I learned to make basic red/white/green sauces and I would highly recommend this experience; her written cooking instructions are one of a kind, special explanations. I can’t wait to take more classes with her and visit Farmbelly!
Where did you grow up?
St. Louis, Missouri.
What did you study and Why?
I studied documentary filmmaking at The University of Alabama. My interests have always been food-focused, but I knew early on I didn’t want to become a chef. Honestly, I spent a lot of time watching PBS cooking shows growing up -- I fell in love with the idea of using food to connect people and tell the stories of other cultures. So when it came to choosing my studies, I chose to pursue food through stories, instead of going the culinary route.
What led you to farming?
While working at a production company for Alabama Public TV, my boss noticed that I got really excited whenever our projects were focused around food. He encouraged me to pursue something in food -- get my hands a bit dirty, knowing I’d be a better storyteller if I had some first hand experience. So, I headed off to Europe and started WWOOFing. I was hooked from the first day. Farming feels like the one thing I can do that benefits the health of my community and the environment, without question.
Tell us about your time at the University of Gastronomic Sciences (UNISG) in Italy?
I met a girl who told me that UNISG is a place for people who are obsessed with food and don’t know what to do about it -- she said, ‘once you go to Pollenzo, they give you the key to the food world.’ At the time, I was searching to learn more hard skills, so I enrolled in the culinary Masters program -- The Theory and Practice of Sustainable Gastronomy. We studied the academia surrounding food, and then applied that knowledge in the kitchen. The program was focused around the cook's role in the food system -- how to source food responsibly and how to preserve traditions.The magic of UNISG is that learning does not stop once you leave the classroom -- you learn something from every student. UNISG-folk come from such a wide breadth of backgrounds, all seeking to learn and fuel their passion about the food system. Friendships built on such intense common interests lead to a whole lot of food, wine, and idea sharing.
Biggest aha moments or takeaways from Slow Food?
Traditional cooking methods were sustainable out of necessity. We now have a responsibility for sustainability. I don’t expect everyone to live off the land and preserve all their food (though, that would be awesome), but examples of sustainable home cooking already exist. Eating seasonably, using the entire animal and the entire plant, mitigating food waste… the manual for these practices has been written by our grandmas and great-grandmas. We just need to get back to practicing these habits in our modern culture.
What have you been up to post Italy?
You may be wondering why I said I didn’t want to be a chef, then ended up at culinary school. Well the sentiment still stands. I plan to be working on farms for the rest of my days. BUT! I have always loved cooking and loved even more teaching people how to use things coming off the farm. Since UNISG I have been teaching on-farm cooking classes that are focused around using traditional recipes to cook and eat more sustainably. I spent three years cooking, teaching and farming in Steamboat Springs, CO, and this year, relocated to Chapel Hill, North Carolina, to help my friend start her farm, Farmbelly. When I'm not teaching cooking classes, or farming at Farmbelly, you can find me farming at Red's Quality Acre. I'm covered in either dirt or flour nearly everyday.
How do we sign up for your cooking classes? What levels are welcome?
Since COVID-19, I have started teaching online cooking classes via Zoom. To keep an eye on upcoming classes, check out my website, www.seedandsalt.com.
The classes are designed for varying degrees of kitchen confidence. As a veggie farmer, my classes tend to be fairly vegetable-forward.
What’s your favorite aspect of being a cook? And farmer?
As a cook -- I love how many senses food plays with -- smell, taste, sound, sight, memory, hunger… it’s such an immersive creative experience. It provides little moments of chill meditation -- like peeling potatoes, zesting lemons, or kneading dough -- and magical moments of friendship and community. I love being able to create something that feeds people.
As a farmer -- When you start diving into the big, messy, confusing labyrinth that is our food system, it is easy to get extremely overwhelmed. I get a lot of peace from starting at the source. Planting seeds, tending them in an environmentally respectful way, then watching them grow into vegetables that feed people in my community -- that’s the straight shot mission that gets me out of bed every morning. Not to mention, I’m convinced every metaphor you need to get through life starts in the garden.
How has COVID-19 affected your view of the world as a cook/farmer?
My vision of utopia is one where people cook more at home and start a garden in their yard or in their community. I hate that it took a global pandemic to get us back to a place where we remember how to take time for these things, but I hope we can keep it up when we get back to “normal.”
How can individuals support farmers/hospitality at this time and always?
If you have the means, I highly recommend buying into a Community Support Agriculture (CSA) box. This is the safest and most direct way to support local farms right now (and always). At our farm, we have had some donors buy weekly CSA shares for others who have lost their jobs due to COVID. If you aren’t sure where local farms are in your area, check out www.localharvest.com -- Remember too, that the cost of food directly correlates to the quality of the food and more importantly, the quality of life afforded to those producing your food.
You can also talk to your farmers -- they are nice people! -- and see if you can help distribute any harvest leftovers or misshapen veggies to people in need.
A tip to share for home chefs?
This is a helpful tip for the somewhat distracted cook (like me!): When you’re sauteing onions or veggies and see that some of the bits are starting to burn, just toss in a splash of water and mix around quickly to remove any brown bits from the bottom of the pan. When you’re working over high heat, the water will evaporate quickly. Sure, there might be a slightly dramatic bubbling situation when you initially add in the water, but the water will help slow down the cooking for a second without greatly alternating the taste or consistency of your dish.
A tip to share around farming/gardening/sustainability?
If you’re starting a garden for the first time, start small! Things like salad greens, radishes, turnips, herbs grow quickly, are delicious, and don’t take up too much space. Don’t jump straight to tomatoes -- they are divas.
Favorite (or top 3) food memories:
A hotdog (with only yellow mustard) at Busch Stadium is my favorite meal. You can take the girl out of St. Louis…
Tortellini e brodo at my friend’s grandmother’s home in Bologna, Italy.
Hot smoked, just caught mackerel on the beach in Lyme Regis, England.
Favorite destinations?
Cape Town, South Africa
Bologna, Italy
Copenhagen, Denmark