Cooking in Marrakech
We are driving to a cooking class in the middle of the desert. Marrakech is such a bustling city that it’s easy to forget the expansive nothingness that is just outside the city perimeter. The mood in the car is so-so. We had an allergy incident that morning thanks to the chefs at our hotel adding a tiny pat of butter for “flavor” to my niece’s breakfast rendering her ill with stomach pains and vomiting thanks to her anaphylactic food allergies. No one was in quite the right frame of mind to attend the class but once we knew she wouldn’t need to be hospitalized, we decided that my brother-in-law, nephew, and I will go since we didn’t want to be rude and no show for a party of 5.
As we were pulling up to the class, in the middle of approximately nowhere, I thought holy smokes what is this going to be like? We were in the midst of a total desert, desolate and barren. As far as the eye could see, was the color beige. We pulled up to the cooking school and my concern was not alleviated. We were first taken on a walking tour of the surrounding area by a Berber village elder where we saw olive trees and wheat fields, stray dogs, and chickens. It was a ghost desert village and unlike anything I had ever experienced. Then, we stepped into the outdoor cooking area and in an instant I understood. We were in the middle of an oasis, an organic farm and garden! The contrast between the surrounding land and the cooking area was stark, it was like two worlds that magically coexisted side by side.
We were warmly greeted by the smiling Chef Yousseff and as I mentioned, the village elder who gave us the tour also conducted the welcoming tea ceremony in a seated picnic area. Moroccan cuisine is a 5 senses experience and I would argue, one equally for the eyes and the stomach. The vibrant colors surrounded us, from the pottery to the blanket we sat on. Maghrebi mint tea aka Moroccan mint tea is synonymous with hospitality. He poured the green tea infused with herbs high above the glasses in order to aerate the tea and create froth. The wonderful aromas are released from the high pour and your taste buds tingle at what is to come. The Moroccan tea ritual is a slow paced, multi-stage one. As the Maghreb proverb says, “The first glass is as gentle as life, the second is as strong as love, the third is as bitter as death.” As the leaves steep, you experience the range of tastes from mild on your first sip to bitter as your last. I preferred a sugarless tea experience so I could taste the unadulterated, evolving flavors.
After the leisurely tea ritual, we were shown to the outdoor clay oven where a local villager was making whole wheat bread. The wheat came from the locally grown fields and it was a one woman operation. She was intense and focused at the task at hand and it seemed there was little room for error as she skillfully manned the oven. Her dedication showed! The freshness of the bread, hot from the clay oven was chewy, soft, and savory. It proved to be a healthy accompaniment to our meal.
Finally, we were taken to the tented outdoor cooking area for our class. It was April so we were able to enjoy the class outside on a beautiful afternoon. The kitchen area is hand made from bamboo and local wood. Spices were neatly arranged in a circle and explained by Chef Yousseff: cinnamon, ginger, turmeric, sweet paprika, cumin. He explained how different combinations of spices are typically used for certain proteins. For example, lamb is paired with the “sweet” marinade of cinnamon, ginger, turmeric, salt & black pepper and vegetables call for sweet paprika, ginger, turmeric, salt & black pepper. Chef really made the experience. He was so patient and had a smile on his face the entire time. We cooked every dish in a tajine - couscous, berber vegetables, lamb, chicken and eggplant. I will never forget the chef taking a fistful of couscous paste and applying it to the tagine vessels to seal the crack between the pots. It harkened images of ancient days of innovation, when necessity was the mother of all inventions and they were clearly as effective as ever, having withstood time. We whipped up some small side dishes. They made a special dessert for us. It was a feast for our senses.
Chef Tarik is the owner and founder of Atelier de Cuisine. He has created something truly special for the community and we were happy to support the class. They accommodated food allergies really well; Samuel, with his dairy/nut ones was totally fine. We absolutely made the right decision to attend the class despite the rocky start to the day and we left the class with full stomachs and hearts. The drive back to the hotel gave me the chance to reflect on the three people we met, how they were the stars of the class, and how we learned so much about the culture through food. There is nothing quite like experiencing cuisine thanks to the local people. Learn. Eat. Relish. On repeat!
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Consider incorporating a cooking class in your next travel adventure. Check out virtual options too. Support and learn the culture firsthand from the locals. Share your experiences below!
